Male hair styles and head gear in the 1400's

Early in the 1400’s, the (liripipe) hood remained a common component of dress for all classes, although it was frequently worn around the neck as a cowl or twisted into the fantastical shapes of the chaperon. Hats of various styles—tall-crowned with small brims or no brims at all, hats with brims turned up on one side for variations of the coif, or low-crowned with wider brims pulled to a point in front—began to compete with the draped chaperon, especially in Italy. A brimless scarlet cap became nearly universal for young Florentines in particular, and was widely worn by older men and those in other cities.1Wikipedia

I gather pictures of head-gear. I find them in illuminated manuscripts, sketches and in paintings. Some of the pictures are quite small and a bit blurred, but I thought it was important to have pictures from different sources rather than just the famous high quality ones. I gather pictures of head gear. I find them in illuminated manuscripts, sketches and in paintings. Some of the pictures are quite small and a bit blurred, but I thought it was important to have pictures from different sources rather than just the famous high quality ones.

Men throughout the 1400’s still wore bycokets, the colors tend to be darker colors.

Man fencing wearing a or bycoket (robin hood hat), 1400’s

Nobleman in bycoket c. 1470.

Man wearing a bycoket with long messy hair, c. 1475 – 1480

Bearded man in a bycoket with chin long hair, 1479

Man wearing a bycote, c. 1475-1480

Older man with a beard, 1485-1490

Man wearing a black bycoket, c. 1490’s

Black man wearing a bycoket c. 1490 – 1495

In the early 1400’s hoods were still common in all parts of society, often worn around the neck as a cowl or either alone or with other headgear.

Hats of imaginary styles were popular. Tall-crowned with small brims or no brims at all, hats with brims turned up on one side for variations of the coif, or bycotes with low-crowned with wider brims pulled to a point in front. A brimless scarlet cap became nearly universal for young Florentines in particular, and was widely worn by older men and those in other cities.

By the late 1470’s men in Northern Europe wore their hair longer with shorter caps.

The man with the huge red hat is a judge. He is also waring a hood. Flemish, 1400’s

Old man with a little black hat c. 1410

A mess of hairstyles and hats, 1416

Beaver hat – distinguished Italian, 1434

scholar in a yellow hat with upturned corners and a very pointy beard. c. 1410-1430 the Bedford Hours c. 1410-1430

Elderly man wearing an untied embroided coif, c. 1410-1430 the Bedford Hours c. 1410-1430

King wearing a hat and crown, c. 1410-1430 the Bedford Hours c. 1410-1430

Duke with a wild fur trimmed and jeweled hat, c. 1450

Duke of Burgundy, mid 1400’s wearing a black baggy hat.

Three men with soft hats. Two wearing barretinas, 1465

A man making shifts. A man making hats. One making belt pouches. A man looking at a hat. They look to be felt hats. Schachzabelbuch–Cod.poet.et.phil.fol.2. Konrad van Ammenhausen; Hagenau; 1467; 203r.

Hats in a variety of styles are also worn by this group of French noblemen in high-collared overgowns lined with fur, c. 1470.

Fighting men. Most are wearing red soft hats without a crown. They all have a chin long bob.

Baggy red hat, c. 1473

More interesting hats. In the background a red chaperon with a very long tail

Very shiny hat with a gold band around it, c. 1473

Baggy hat, c. 1473

Man with red hat and woman with veil and wimple. c. 1488

Flat red hat, (1460-1515)

Mwn wearing high brown hats with a brim and woman in a head wrap, c. 1475

Man wearing a high black hat with a brim and woman in a head wrap, c. 1475

Courtiers wearing soft blue hats.

Rich man wearing soft hats with brims folded up. He has shoulder long hair and a beard. 1479

Elderly learned man handing a letter over and a companion. Both wearing soft hats with brims folded up. 1479

Men talking. One is bare headed and the other is wearing a cylinder hat. 1479

Young man in a bycoket and an elderly man in a hat with a folded brim. 1479

Courtiers wearing hats with brims turned up. 1479

Young man with a wild chin length hair under a small black hat, c. 1485-1490

Peasant in a black hat, c. 1485-1490

Grumpy man with a brimmed hat and a fur collar, c. 1485

Two men talking outside the barn were jesus was born. On wearing a brown bycoke and one wearing a funky fur trimmed one. I am guessing they are two of the tree wise men, c. 1485-1490

Elderly man with a full grey beard and a hat with a down turned brim. c. 1485-1490

businessman & wife, c. 1490

c. 1492-1495

Italian men wearing short black pill box style brimless hats on the street, 1495

Man with a small redish beret/bonnet style hat. 1497

Two ear flaps seem to be tied on the top of the head. c. 1490-1500

Painter wearing a red cap. Two ear flaps seem to be tied on the top of the head.

Italian men in fussy hats. c. 1490 – 1495

Man wearing a bonnet with a very large feather, c. 1496-1497

Albrecht Dürer with long hair, a black and white striped cap with tassels, 1498

The tall brimless hat

Tall brimless hats, often black or red was popular though out the century.

Priest(?), c. 1447

High felt hat, 1467

High hat, c. 1470

High felt hats and short bowl-cut hair. Italy, c. 1470.

Tall black hat with a little detail on top. Like most of the men in this period is wearing his hair chin long.

Man in a tall red hat reading a scroll, c. 1460-1515

c. 1475-1480

Chaperon with liripipe

A (liripipe) hood, originally covering the head and shoulders with a hole was cut in the fabric to frame the face. The point of the hood was often very long – called a liripipe.

In the 1400’s changing masculine fashion dictated that the head should go right through the visor and the neckpiece be raised to form a crest on the head, often on a padded ring (bourrelet). The point of the hood was then worn round the neck or round the head. Worn in this manner it was called a chaperon. Inside church or in the present of high ranking nobility men would wear them over their shoulder. I kind of think of it as a baseball cap worn backwards for fashion purposes.

Man walking in a brisk wind wears a chaperon that has been caught by a gust. He wears a belt pouch and carries a walking stick, late 1300’s

Elaborate headdresses are characteristic of the earlier 1400’s.

Two man wearing chaperons and one with a little black hat. Notice that the munk is not wearing any headgear. 1413

Nobles with amazing hats. The man in the middle is wearing a chaperon with a large piece of jewlery, c. 1413

Men feasting wearing big baggy hats or hoods. Notice the bowl cut hair. c. 1413

Falconer wearing a blue chaperon with a gold pattern c. 1410-1430 the Bedford Hours c. 1410-1430

Man carring a three(?), he wears a blue baggy hat, possibly a chaperon, c. 1410-1430 the Bedford Hours c. 1410-1430

Chaperon worn in 1400’s style

Grumpy scribe or scholar wearing a chaperon in a turban style. He has a split grey beared, c. 1410-1430 the Bedford Hours c. 1410-1430

Grey bearded man with a large nose and wearing a very red chaperon arranged on his head. c. 1410-1430 the Bedford Hours c. 1410-1430

Man in a baggy chaperon c. 1410-1430 the Bedford Hours c. 1410-1430

Man wearing a chaperon drapped as a turban, circa 1425

A relatively simple wool chaperon, with bourrelet, and cornette hanging forward. 1432

The chaperon is worn in style A with just a patch of the bourrelet showing (right of centre) through the cornette wound round it. 1433

Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, wears an elaborately draped chaperon with a black-on-black figured silk short overgown with width at the shoulder, , c. 1447

Chancellor Nicolas Rolin, using a less exuberant version of the style.

Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy after Rogier van der Weyden, c. 1450, has an unusually large bourrelet, surely hollow. Conversely the patte could be tied above, whilst the cornette hung loose to front or rear.

The chaperon is carried over the shoulder, with the cornette to the front. He is also wearing a beautiful robe with fur trims, c. 1450

The courtier has a chaperon over his shoulder as well as a hat. 1460

The cornette draped round at the front is typically Italian. c. 1469

St Joseph now wears an evolved but simple chaperon with a short cornette around his shoulders. c. 1470.

Peasant in a chaperon hood late 1400’s

Peasant in a chaperon, late 1400’s

Chaperon worn in 1400’s style, c. 1490

Hairstyles

By mid century a bowl haircut with the neck shaved became popular. In Germany a a fussy of blond hair was breifly popular in romantic pictures. By the end of the century should length hair had come into style and continued into the early 1500’s.2Wikipedia

Men in their underwear, where we can see their hair without hats pretty clearly. Notice the beards. c. 1410

Bowl haircut with shaved neck, c 1413

Man with very short bowl style hair and shaved sides. He even looks like he could use a shave. c. 1410-1430

The “bowl” haircut with the back of the neck shaved was popular in mid-1400’s. 1435

Lords with the bowl cut style, c. 1447

Very short haired man, it kind of looks like it was shaved resonantly – possibly as penance, c. 1450

Two italian men with wild hair in armor, c. 1450

Lords with the bowl cut style in church. Typically for Germany, the highest status men (with kneelers) have fur (?) hats, whilst the sons with chaperons kneel on the floor.

Curly haired man making purses, 1467

Long hair and high collar, 1478

Man with bangs and shoulder length hair, 1479

Long haired young man. 1487

Young man with loose hair. Notice how it is cute, c. 1495

Very short haired Lansquenet, c. 1497

Very short hair cook

Male commoners’ head gear

Coif 1412

Black hat and colored head wrap, c. 1415

Peasant reaping in linen braies and shirt and straw hat. c 1412–1416

Peasant in straw hat, 1416

Straw hats, head & head wrap c. 1415

Chaperon late 1412

Farmer wearing a black straw hat with the brim aranged to mimic some of the court styles. He has a full beard and chin length hair. c. 1410-1430 the Bedford Hours c. 1410-1430